Trwyn Maen Melyn - The Nose

Climbs

• 4. The Nose — 6a
• 2. Sgrech y Môr (Ocean Scream) — 6b+
• 3. The Shrimplet — 6b+
• 1. The Nostrils — 6b+

Approach & access

In the Zawn below the standing stone / maen melyn with The Bardsey Ripple. The dws routes are all on the overhanging nose obvious when looking out to sea. Its simplest to approach from behind the climbs- scramble down to the west of the trad crag to a good platform above high tide just behind The Nose feature. Alternatively can traverse in from the boulders beneath The Bardsey Ripple however this is not safe- you are above ledges: maybe HS 4a or 3b S3.

The Pen Llyn guide describes The Nose E2 5b (1991). We think this takes the rib on the rhs of the nose feature- see also a post by Alex Riley on llyn climbing fb group. All other routes take the overhanging wall and all can be mixed or linked into each other. There are 3 distinct starts and 3 distinct finishes. Grades are a good guess only. Nothing feels easier than f6b or harder than f6c but its tricky to grade due to the sharpness of the holds and defensive climbing due to the fear of snapping a hold. We've not seen a handhold snap or crumble, though small feet do crumble. The routes top out at around 10m at high tide. There's a lot of water even at mid tide but its worth working out where you will fall and investigating yourself whether that would be safe . I recommend climbing on a good high tide- a soft fall to compensate for the soft rock.