Secret Garden

by remus

A series of sloping, slapping testpieces located in the charming woodland above Millstone. At the main area Harder Side provides a fine selection of 5th and 6th grade problems to get you in the mood then 11. Beach Ball is the classic slapper. If you've got energy to spare 17. Left-hand Man and 19. Dick Williams are good technical problems. Round the back 34. Walnut Whip is a bit of a hidden gem with the other problems on the bloc giving more quality wrestling in the mid to high 7th grade.

Climbs

• 1. First Bulge — 5
• 2. Sitdown Groove — 5+
• 3. Harder Side — 7A
• 4. The Easier Side — 5+
• 5. Topless Crack — 6A
• 6. Chockstone Crack — 5
• 7. Up From Recess — 6A+
• 8. Beach Bum — 7A
• 9. Zaff's problem — 7B
• 10. Pistol Pinch — 7A+
• 11. Beach Ball — 7A
• 12. Not Zaff's — 6B
• 13. Beach Crack — 5
• 14. Secret Garden Traverse — 6B+
• 15. The Runnel — 6C
• 16. Nigel's Problem — 7A
• 17. Left-hand Man — 7B+
• 18. Left-hand Man Direct — 7C+
• 19. Dick Williams — 7B
• 20. Middle Man — 7C
• 21. Right-hand Man — 7A+
• 22. Buoux Left — 5+
• 23. Buoux Right — 5
• 24. Garden Shed Arete — 6A
• 25. Garden Shed — 6C
• 26. Zaffatricks — 7B+
• 27. The Duck — 6C
• 28. Middle Duck — 6B+
• 29. Right-hand Duck — 7A
• 30. Savage Garden — 7B+
• 31. Pascal Sauvage — 7C+
• 32. Hulley Pulley — 7B+
• 33. Fireball — 7B+
• 34. Walnut Whip — 6C
• 35. Hare's Ear — 7A
• 36. The Talented Mr. Kipling — 7A
• 37. The Secret Life of Mr. Kipling — 7A
• 38. Bigmouth Shiner — 6B
• 39. Bigmouth Strikes Again — 7A
• 40. The Tongue — 3
• 41. Monster Mouth — 6B+
• 42. Darth Maul — 7B
• 43. Powerball — 7B

Approach & access

From the car park follow the eastwards path back along the road (towards Sheffield) and go through the gate on your left after 100m or so. Follow the path parallel to the road for a short while until you can branch off up into the woods, this is a fairly good path but it can be tricky to follow if the bracken is up. Follow this all the way to the main area. Some of the more outlying areas (The Talented Mr. Kipling and Hare's Ear in particular) are hard to spot in summer when the bracken is up. Follow the pins (or just wait for winter).