Peedie Inlet Bouldering

by Robbie E

Probably the best bouldering in Orkney. The Obsession Cave offers a huge amount of good climbing on good rock with many variations and eliminates possible. The crowning jewel is Seasonal Obsessive Euphoria. Other standouts include Swelly of the Beast and Forever Dolphin Love. The walls to the right of the cave offer a few fun lines with Press and Hold being and interesting challenge. Further right the smaller cave offers a few fun lines but the crack line Jeu de Jam is absolutely fantastic if challenging to get in good conditions. The Pigeon Prow offers a few good lines and the potential for a few much harder projects. Finally the hanging block further round offers a different style of climbing on pockets and breaks with Stromatoverse also being truly great climbing and again offers a few harder projects. Conditions can be challenging with the cave and walls suffering from seepage so it's mostly a late spring/summer/early autumn venue and benefits from a long dry spell. The main cave also suffers from condensation with big temperature variations. Atmosphere wise it is pretty hard to beat. It's a stunning location, sheltered from the wind and often is t-shirt weather while it's full on puffy jackets above. Great place for a snooze in the sun whilst resting in between goes. Bring a book down. The rock is mostly excellent having been hardened by the sea for hundreds of years and although sandstone it can be climbed as soon as it's dry after rain.

Climbs

• 1. Seasonal Obsessive Euphoria — 7A
• 10. Swelly of the Beast — 6A+
• 9. Forever Dolphin Love — 6B
• 11. Ends Swell — 5+
• 12. Spray to Play — 4+
• 13. Pay to Spray — 5+
• 6. Recomposure — 5
• 8. Peedie SOE — 6B+
• 7. Fishcling — 4+
• 3. Clingfish — 4
• 5. Tides of March SS — 6A
• 2. Decomposure — 5+
• 4. Tides of March — 5+
• 15. Cool Clam and Collected — 4
• 14. Press and Hold — 5+
• 16. Dolphin Dash — 3+
• 17. Scruttle — 5+
• 18. Strand to Attention — 4+
• 19. Jeu de Jam — 6B
• 20. Squab Squad — 5
• 22. Columbidae — 6A
• 21. Sitting Pigeon Project
• 23. Thin Pigeon Project
• 24. Stromatoverse — 6B
• 25. Odour Avoider — 4+
• 26. Bad landing project
• 27. Limpet Crimp Project

Approach & access

Walk from the Yesnaby car park to where the path splits to either go left to the trad walls or right to the Brough of Bigging. Head to the center top of the center of the inlet and chuck your mats off the top of the cliff to avoid having to scramble down with them. At low tide head further left for an easier scramble down and then a boulder hop to the main cave. At high tide stick to the slabs at the right, scramble down ledges and then along a wall and down a slab. Easy scrambling but not for the faint hearted.

The sandstone on the scrambles is incredibly slippy after rain. It is possible to get stuck/have to very sketchily climb out if the slabs on the approach get soaked. You'll probably get yourself out but have to abandon the pads in the cave. Keep an eye on the forecast and if really worried it is possible to set up and ab rope to aid getting in and out. It's possible to stash pads in the big cave as it is generally non-tidal but a big storm or swell will wash right up there. Hanging Slab and Pigeon Prow are affected by tide