Millstone Edge

by remus

A quarried-jewel in the crown of Peak District gritstone, Millstone offers a wealth of physical cracks (129. Regent Street, 117. Great Portland Street and 120. London Wall), technical corners (96. Great Northern Road, 85. Green Death) and terrifying aretes (84. Edge Lane, 88. The Master's Edge). While there isn't lots of bouldering there are some gems hidden amongst the routes: 103. Technical Master, 87. Green Death Superdirect and 65. Bed of Procrustes should provide some entertainment. These can also be combined with a circuit on the crags above (Over Owler Tor, Secret Garden etc.) The crag gets a decent breeze so can be a good shout in showery conditions, though parts do take seepage so heavy rain and prolonged wet spells can still cause issues.

Climbs

1. Salinela Sunset — E4 6a
2. Fat and Jealous — E5 6c
3. Brigadoon — 7B
4. Deceptive Rib — 5+
5. Steady Arete — 5
6. Brindle — VS 4c
7. Scrimsel — VS 4c
8. Brimstone — E2 5b
9. Satan's Slit — HVS 5b
11. Gates of Mordor — E3 5c
12. Pin Prick — E2 5c
13. Hacklespur — HVS 5b
14. Cauldron Crack — E3 5c
10. Anything is Possible in Cartoons — E4 6b
15. Estremo — HVS 5a
16. Gimbals — HVS 5a
17. Mother's Pride — E6 6b
18. perplexity — E6 6b
19. plexity — HVS 5a
20. Remeberance Day — VS 4c
21. Day Dream — VS 4c
22. Rainy Day — VS 4b
23. Commix — E2 5c
25. Top Loader — E7 6b
26. Drifter — E7 6b
27. Saville Street — E3 6a
28. Soho Sally — E1 5b
29. Shape Shifter — E6 6b
32. March Hare — E2 5b
31. April Arete — HVS 4c
30. February Fox — E1 5b
33. Dextorous Hare
34. Dexterity — E1 5b
35. Cioch Corner — S 4a
36. Mayday — HVS 5a
37. Supra Direct — HVS 5b
38. The Hacker — VS 4c
39. Close Shave — S 3c
40. Boomerang — S 4a
41. Brumal — VS 4c
42. Eartha — HS 4b
43. F.A.T.D — HS 4a
44. The Pittsburgh Enigma — E4 5c
45. Wuthering Crack — HVS 5a
46. Evening Premiere — HVS 5a
47. Svelt — HVS 5a
48. The Snivelling Shits — E5 6a
50. The Moronic Chippings — VS 4b
51. Great Slab — HS 4b
49. Election Special — E3 6a
53. lorica — VS 4c
24. Bohemian Grove — 8A
55. Rust Arete — 5+
56. Rust — 5
52. Sex Dwarves — 6B+
54. Cake Walk — S 4a
57. Windrete — E2 5b
58. Breeze Mugger — E5 6b
59. Meeze Brugger — E5 6b
60. Eros — E2 5b
61. Lyons Corner House — HVS 5a
62. Erb — E2 5b
63. Twikker — E3 5c
64. Lubric — HVS 5a
65. Bed of Procrustes — 8B
66. Pinstone Street — E2 5c
67. Diamond Groove — HVS 5b
68. Flapjack — VS 4b
69. Neatfeet — HVS 5a
70. SSS — D
71. Winter's Grip — E6 6b
72. Keelhaul — VS 4c
73. Crusty Corner — S 4a
74. Quiddity — HVS 5a
75. Billingsgate — E1 5b
76. Stone Dri — E2 6a
77. Crewcut — VS 4c
78. Xanadu
79. Under Doctor's Orders — E2 6a
80. Jealous Pnesioner — E4 5c
81. Xanadu Direct — E3 5c
84. Great West Road
82. Adios Amigo — E5 6b
85. Edge Lane — E5 6a
86. Green Death — E5 5c
87. Green Death Direct — 6C
88. Green Death Superdirect — 7B
89. The Master's Edge — E7 6c
90. Pure Now — E9 6c
91. The Bad and the Beautiful — E7 6c
92. Great Arete — E5 5c
93. Knightsbridge — E2 5c
94. Scoop Crack — VS 4c
95. The Scoop — D
96. Discovery — HVS 5b
97. Great Northern Road — HVS 5a
98. Detour — E2 5c
99. The Hunter House Road Toad — E5 6b
100. Clock People — E6 6c
101. Watling Street — E3 5b
102. Quality Street — E5 6b
103. Deaf Dog — HVS 5b
104. Technical Master — 6B
105. Embankment 1
106. Elm Street — 7C+
107. Embankment 2
108. Scritto's Republic — E7 6b
109. Embankment 3 — E1 5b
111. Time for Tea — E3 5c
112. Embankment 4 — E1 5b
113. Whitehall — HVS 5b
115. Lotto — E1 5c
116. The Jasmine Corridor — E6 6c
117. Covent Garden
118. Bond Street — HVS 5b
119. Monopoly — E7 6b
120. Great Portland Street — HVS 5b
121. White Wall — E5 6b
122. The Mall — VS 4c
123. London Wall — E5 6a
124. Lambeth Chimney — HS 4b
125. Adam Smith's Invisible Hand — E6 6b
126. The Rack — E5 6a
127. Oxford Street — E3 6a
128. Piccadilly Circus — E2 5c
129. Coventry Street — E5 6b
130. How Many Roads — E7 6c
131. Jermyn Street — E5 6a
132. Regent Street — E2 5c
133. Wall Street Crash — E5 6b
134. Shaftesbury Avenue — HVS 5b
135. The Whore — HVS 5a
136. Gimcrack — VS 4c
137. At-a-cliff — VS 4c
138. Happy Wanderer — VS 4c
139. Charing Cross Road — HVS 5a
140. Oriel — VS 5a
141. Oriel — S 4a
142. Flank Crack — VD
143. Chiming Cracks — HS 4a
144. Hells Bells — HS 4a
145. Juniper — E1 5b
146. Midrift — VD
147. Giant's Steps — VD
148. Street Legal — E2 5c
149. Blood and Guts on Botty Street — E5 6b
83. Cherry Bank Road — 7C+
114. Little Lotto Arete — 5
110. Tip Top — 7C

Approach & access

For the first time visitor the easiest approach is to follow the path along the bottom of the crag so you can scope things out. If you know where you are headed then walking along the top of the crag is slightly faster, but harder to work out where things are.