Deer Gallows

by remus

Uncontroversially over-shadowed by it's neighbour Crookrise, Deer Gallows is still worth a look if you fancy something away from the crowds. It features a nice circuit of lower grade boulder problems and some boulders-cum-trad routes which can be enjoyed in either style. Main Wall is the main attraction with the outlying Central Blocks and Square Blocks providing some good easier problems. 33. Kojak is the one for the big guns. The starts of the routes on Main Wall tend to make good boulder problems in their own right if you don't fancy topping them out.

Climbs

• 1. Double Take — 5+
• 2. Double or Quits — 4+
• 3. Left Arete — 3
• 4. The Dish — 3
• 5. The Chips — 3
• 6. Right Arete — 4+
• 8. Rift Arete — VS 5a
• 9. The Pocket — HVS 5b
• 10. Fist Crack — VS 5a
• 11. Balance — VS 5a
• 12. The Nose — VS 4c
• 13. Cave Crack Alternative — HVS 5a
• 14. Cave Crack — VS 4c
• 17. Rock Bottom — E3 6a
• 18. Brown Dancer — E2 5c
• 19. Hangman's Wall — E1 5b
• 20. Deer Gallows Chimney — VD
• 21. Deer Gallows Wall — HVS 5a
• 22. Wreath — VS 4c
• 29. No Eye Deer — HVS 5b
• 30. Innominata — VS 5a
• 31. Zig Zag — VS 4b
• 32. Knows — HVS 5b
• 38. Left-hand Route — VD
• 39. Right-hand Route — VD
• 40. Slip — HVS 5b
• 41. Slither — E1 5c
• 42. Slide — HVS 5b
• 43. Gallows Humour — E4 6b
• 44. Wriggly Route — VS 5a
• 45. Deer Gallows Original — D
• 23. Staircase Rib — HVD
• 24. Poacher's Wall — VS 4b
• 25. The Cringe — HVS 5b
• 26. Gamekeeper's Wall — VS 4c
• 27. Pinnacle Wall Left-hand — S 4a
• 28. Layman's Arete — D
• 15. Pebble Promenade — 6B
• 16. Pochette Surprise — 6C
• 33. Still No Eye Deer — 6A
• 34. Kojak — 7C
• 35. Pocket Wall — 4
• 36. Sweeping Slab — 5+
• 37. Gallows Pole — 4+
• 46. Elk — 5
• 47. Moose — 3
• 48. Rudolf — 3+
• 49. Venison — 6B
• 50. Bambi — 3
• 51. Bullwinkle — 6B
• 52. Sambar — 6C
• 53. Oh Deer! — 4+
• 54. Actaeon — 4+
• 55. Stag — HVD
• 56. The Rising Moon — 5+
• 57. Setting Sun — 4+
• 58. Friendly Spirits — 4+
• 59. Flute Problem — 4
• 60. The Scoop — 3
• 61. Scrittly Come Dancing — 4
• 62. More Empty Skies — 6A
• 63. Empty Skies — 6A
• 64. Moorland Serenade — 6A
• 65. Squeezed In — 5
• 66. The End — 3
• 7. Rift Traverse — 6B

Approach & access

Follow the good path round to the left of the reservoir before hopping over a stile, as for Crookrise. Turn left here then pick up a vague path on the left. There is not really a good path, so follow the trail marked on the approach map but don't be surprised if you end up off-roading through bracken at points.

Access details: https://services.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=475