Berry Head

by remus

Climbs

• 1. Magical Mystery Tour (Part 1) — 6a+
• 11. Pink Roadster — 6c
• 8. White Rhino Tea — 6c
• 9. Waiting Yer Ouzel — 6b+
• 10. White Rhino Corner — 5
• 7. Jose Sandeles — 6c+
• 5. Edge of the Jungle — 6a
• 6. Humanize — 6a+
• 4. Barrel Traverse — 7c
• 3. Rainbow Bridge — 7a
• 2. Woody's Wall — 7a
• 12. Relay — 5
• 13. Karmacoma — 6a+
• 14. Forrest Gump — 6b

Approach & access

One of the UK's premier DWSing venues with a wide range of routes from 6a and upwards. Magical Mystery Tour is as the name suggests and is a great intro to DWS, though as with all routes here you need to be a good swimmer. These topos are very selective, a guidebook is a great investment to sample the full joys. From the end of the car park go over the cattle grid and head east towards the coast until you hit a little viewpoint, then go through a gate in the fence (sometimes locked) and continue straight down the hill to the gearing up area above Rainbow Wall area. For White Rhino Tea area, from the parking head towards The Guardhouse Cafe, then take the small path behind the bird watching hut. Follow this path down towards the top of the cliff and follow it round to your right.

Nesting restrictions apply to much of the cliff between 1st March and 31st July. On the plus side, this means there's usually a great scene on the first weekend of August as DWS devotees flock to sample the delights. It is easiest to describe the unrestricted section. If you are looking at the Rainbow Bridge wall the climbing from Way Down (5b) on the left to Mr Whippy (6a) on the right is open year round. Bear in mind that this makes approaching and exiting harder so check your exit points before committing.